The Other Critics

Unterman Clucks Over Kokko; Sens Enjoys the Playfulness at Luce

• Patricia Unterman went to San Mateo this week and made eyes at the “sexy grillers” at Japanese chicken eatery Kokko. She has now become “addicted” to the deep-fried chicken cartilage known as nankotu karaage, and she was “practically clucking with contentment” after skewers of chicken livers, gizzards, and tender chicken thighs. [Examiner]

• Josh Sens penned a mini-review this week of Luce in the Inter-Continental Hotel, calling chef Dominique Crenn’s work “deft” and her presentations “playful” in “bring[ing] bistro traditions into the science lab. [SF Mag]

Unterman Clucks Over Kokko; Sens Enjoys the Playfulness at Luce