The Other Critics

Quince is Masterful; Bistro Bordeaux Feels Great

Quince's octopus with heirloom tomato compote and citrus segments.
Quince’s octopus with heirloom tomato compote and citrus segments. Photo: Quince

• Andy Motto is hands-down the best of the three chefs who have helmed Quince since its opening, says Phil Vettel. The liquid cauliflower ravioli recalls Grant Achatz at his best, and Motto’s subtlety forces the diner to slow down and pay attention — a good thing. [Tribune]

• The atmosphere at Evanston’s Bistro Bordeaux is so homey, welcoming, and completely French that Heather Shouse is captivated even before she tries the food. But for a slightly undercooked egg white and some undersalted snails, she’s as transported by her dinner — foie gras, steak frites, oysters, croque madame — as by the ambiance. [TOC]

• Considering chef Kendal Duque’s pedigree, Julia Kramer’s a little confused by the inconsistent, vaguely amateur-hour meal she has at Cuna: poorly made drinks, ice cream that’s hard as a rock, and undersalted courses sent out at breakneck, overlapping speed. [TOC]

Quince is Masterful; Bistro Bordeaux Feels Great