The Other Critics

Michael Bauer Wishes He Could Bring Mark Vetri’s Mortadella Mousse Back From Philly

“The whipped charcuterie has the texture of whipped butter,” he writes. Photo: Michael Bauer

San Francisco Chronicle critic Michael Bauer writes today about a recent jaunt he took to sample from the food scene in Philadelphia. Without traveling, he says, “it’s easy [for critics] to take for granted what we do well in the Bay Area, and not focus on the things we’re missing.”

Among the dishes he died for were Jose Garces’ red curry with king crab and tofu at Chifa; the caulifower at Zahav; the soft pretzels at Miller’s Twist; and the mortadella mousse at Mark Vetri’s newly opened trattoria Amìs. Well Philly, we’ll see your mortadella mousse and raise you one scoop of spreadable salami (nduja) from Boccalone — but Vetri’s stuff does look yummy.

What San Francisco Restaurants Could Learn from Philadelphia [Between Meals]
Earlier: What to Eat at Amìs, Opening January 14 [Grub Street Philadelphia]

Michael Bauer Wishes He Could Bring Mark Vetri’s Mortadella Mousse Back From