Adam Platt on Tipsy Parson; Urban Forager: Bakery Edition

By

In the magazine this week, Adam Platt reviews two newcomers serving southern food and small plates, respectively. Tipsy Parson is clearly designed as a decorous, tea-social alternative to the usual barbecue joints and fry houses that pass for southern restaurants in this Yankee town, he writes. But he misses some staples like fried chicken: Since this popular, consistently crowded restaurant opened, several of the more traditionalist southern-style appetizers and entres appear to have been excised from the menu. Further downtown, the Denton brothers latest dining outlet, Corsino seems to have been designed with durability, and a high turnover rate, in mind, complains Platt. None of the pastas or entres cost over $20, and most are competent in a serviceable, professional way, but not outstanding.

Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld forage this week for the best baked goods in town, including a new line of sweets introduced at Bklyn Larder that boasts buttermilk cake, pistachio loaf cake, and perfectly textured, crispy-chewy cookies. Rob and Robin preview the opening of Bistro Vendme, where former Jubilee chef-partner Pascal Petiteau revives many of his signature Gallic classics, as well as the Meatball Shop. Also in comfort food: Black radishes are in season, and chef Neil Ferguson, formerly of Allen & Delancey and now at Soho House, tempers the roots characteristic bite in a rich, creamy gratin. Finally, our real-estate section asks a newcomer and an old-timer to list their favorite stops in Hells Kitchen; the young guy digs Xie Xie, while a fellow clearly predating the carbophobe generation recommends H Bagels, Little Pie Company, and Amys Bread.