The Other Critics

“Abandon Gastronomic Snobbery” at Bisuteki; Lord Hobo’s Food “Rather Good”

• Mat Schaffer gives Bisuteki a genial C+: “Abandon gastronomic snobbery, ye who dine at Bisuteki Tokyo, the recently reopened teppanyaki restaurant at the Marriott Courtyard Boston Cambridge hotel on Memorial Drive. Who won’t enjoy watching supper prepared before your eyes by a garrulous, knife-spinning, spatula-juggling chef who flips pieces of shrimp into patrons’ mouths and catches eggshells in his toque? Sure, it’s dinner theater at its kitschiest, but admit it, it’s fun.” [Herald]

• Robert Nadeau bestows four stars on Lord Hobo, where the food “rather reminded me, in the month of the author’s death, of Robert Parker’s gourmet tough guy, Spenser. A thirtysomething beer-geek Spenser, but like that: gourmand with a little machismo.” [Phoenix]

Fish Market gets two and a half stars from Devra First: “Fish Market is the Ikea of sushi bars. It offers a well-designed product for less; a person can get happily full here for under $30.” [Globe]

• MC Slim JB pays a visit to Somerville’s Bull McCabe’s, though it sounds like “the kind of casual-dining hellhole that Anthony Bourdain would call ‘TGI McFunster’s,’” it’s actually “a fine little neighborhood pub with many modest virtues, including decent and very attractively priced food.” [Phoenix]

• Cheap Eats stops by the new Parish Cafe, which is still finding its feet, but “has a nice feel and warmth, as if poised to become a neighborhood hangout. Which it will. Local hospital workers will walk over for lunch or drinks after work, the kitchen will fix some details, and all the menu items will be showpieces.” [Globe]

“Abandon Gastronomic Snobbery” at Bisuteki; Lord Hobo’s Food