Trying to shed light on the philosophical differences that Fabio Trabocchi said spurred his departure from The Four Seasons, the Post hears from an insider that dishes like spaghetti with sea urchin were just too progressive for regulars looking for grilled fish, steamed vegetables hospital food. One thing that was said to be a sticking point with the owners: Trabocchi was cooking with lard, something that would likely shock regulars accustomed to the restaurant's longtime emphasis on light, healthy fare. Okay, but when we looked back on The Four Seasons' menu circa 1975, we found calfs brain beurre noir, veal kidneys, sweetbreads meunire, and the like. Hardly hospital food. The Post's source says cost control was also an issue.
One Toque Over The Line [NYP]