After completing a culinary tour of Northern California, which culminated in the “Elysian experience” of a meal at Thomas Keller’s renowned French Laundry, writer Mark Vanhoenacker was unable to enjoy food anywhere else. “What restaurant — what affordable restaurant — would never disappoint us?” he whines. Vanhoenacker seeks solace in McDonald’s and is somehow able to convince himself that the two restaurants actually have a lot in common.
He notes that both places have “cheerful, unpretentious service” and leave diners with little treats at the end of the meal — either a Happy Meal prize, or a wooden laundry pin.
At McDonald’s one is not likely to be served such French Laundry delights as a Tajine of Sweetbreads or Confit de Coeur de Veau. (And really it’s a pity to go through life without ever trying the Foie Gras en Terrine with K&J; Orchard Peaches, Fennel Bulb and Yogurt Génoise.) Yet these are just the sorts of animal parts that fast-food restaurants have long been accused of stuffing into their burgers. Why is offal okay when Thomas Keller uses it? Both restaurants serve impressive pommes frites.
Clever, Vanhoenacker. Now we’ve got some apples and oranges you might want to take a crack at.
Dining at McLaundry [More Intelligent Life via Eater]
