“Maialino is a very good restaurant,” writes Sam Sifton. Chef Nick “Anderer is a New Yorker, born in Indiana. But his cooking is the genuine article.” [NYT]
Related: A Closer Look at Maialino, One Day In
At Maialino “many dishes are not only lighter on the tongue than in Rome, they also taste better,” says Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]
After multiple visits to Maialino (including one with Gail Simmons) “the staff is already in that fine anything-you-say and thank-you-for-coming Meyer service mode. And the kitchen is definitely sharper,” writes Gael Greene. [Insatiable Critic]
The Breslin “offers the most opulently fatty food in New York — served in medieval portions in a raucous rock & roll setting,” says Jay Cheshes, adding that “the new gastropub delivers a near-perfect dining experience.” [TONY]
Related: Ken Friedman Is Ready to Say ‘Yes’ to You at the Breslin
“At Brooklyn Fare’s Kitchen, a few doors down from the small, independent, more-than-a-mere-grocery-store Brooklyn Fare, chef César Ramirez offers what is the most outrageously wonderful, unfathomably underpriced, and virtually unattainable meal in New York,” declares Alan Richman. [Forked and Corked/GQ]
Related: César Ramirez Sticks With the Chef’s Counter
“If the food was a little more exciting, Fort Defiance would be mobbed by intrepid inner-borough gourmands,” writes Lila Byock, who fawns over owner St. John Frizell’s cocktails. [NYer]
Related: A Closer Look at Fort Defiance
Robert Sietsema joined an “Organ Meat Society meeting … called to order at Northeast Taste, a Flushing restaurant that features cooking from China’s northeastern provinces.” [VV]