Never one to suffer critics gladly, Hearths Marco Canora recently went on the Mr. Cutlets Show and vented to Josh Ozersky (whos now engaged!) about Adam Platt and Frank Brunis reviews of his former restaurant, Insieme, among other things. He doesnt like that Platt and others compared the restaurant to his stomping grounds, Craft (Platt called Insieme some reconstituted, Mediterranean version of Craft 2.0), and he also has a general complaint: Its hard to impress guys like Frank Bruni who eat out 345 nights a week, or Adam Platt. You have to hit these guys in the head with a two-by-four if you want them to be like, Wow. Its hard to wow that guy its almost impossible to wow that guy. A lot of great restaurants get beat up and subsequently fail because of a tepid one-star review.
Canora goes on to praise Ruth Reichls famous review of Le Cirque, in which she went undercover to show that civilians get less favorable treatment: I think that happens often, and I think its rare to find the restaurant that continues to strive to be ambitious and continues to strive to be perfect and has their eye on the prize every day. I think thats rare. I think that she really made that obvious when she went. You cant deny that Joe Shmoe on a Wednesday night, who nobody knows and he gets the shitty table, has a much different experience than Frank Bruni or Adam Platt when they come in during the first three months or six weeks of a restaurant. Canora then agrees with Ozerskys premise that writers and regulars get 15 percent better food.
Forget critics dressing as civilians in this age, when Siftons photo is everywhere, maybe civilians should start dressing as critics?
Mr. Cutlets Show [Heritage Radio Network]