In the magazine this week, Adam Platt finds a taste of Rome at Maialino, even though the service screams Danny Meyer: “Once at your table, you will be swarmed by platoons of solicitous, well-drilled waiters dressed in cheerfully colored cotton button-down shirts and a standard-issue Danny Land bistro apron.” Chef Nick Anderer “has a ventriloquist’s knack for soaking up the spare, earthy vocabulary of casual Roman restaurant cooking and reproducing it, more or less exactly, on the plate,” Platt writes in his three-star evaluation. Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld preview openings, including coffee shop RBC NYC, Chesapeake Bay–themed fish shack Choptank, and Colicchio & Sons, where Tom Colicchio vows to cook.
Good news for weary wallets: the dollar slice is back! New York’s dollar menu also includes things like dumplings, sushi, and falafel, says Robert Morgan. If you really want to save money, you could also brew your own beer, a practice that’s gaining popularity with the locavore movement and better supplies. Pair your beer with this week’s in season recipe for Finnish rutabaga pudding from Gastronomica editor Darra Goldstein. And finally, good news for fried-chicken lovers who can’t make it to Harlem: “Beginning January 22, New York’s premier frymaster Charles Gabriel totes his titanic skillets down from Harlem for Fried Chicken Fridays at Aretsky’s Patroon,” conclude Rob and Robin.