Lists of Must-Visit Places Avoid Recommending Momofuku, But Can’t Resist Referencing It
In addition to a Nation’s Restaurant News' list of “The 50 All-American Icons” (Katz’s, Geno’s Steaks, Kelly’s Roast Beef, In-N-Out, and more), Food and Wine has published a list of “The World's Top 10 Life-Changing Restaurants” that, of course, includes El Bulli, the Fat Duck, French Laundry, and Blue Hill at Stone Barns. Lists don’t get much more obvious than these two — but more idiosyncratic is the Post’s list of “8 Culinary Adventures for 2010.” Pegged on Richard Branson’s new culinary resort in Jersey, the piece goes on to recommend a trio of oyster spots in San Francisco, Animal in Los Angeles, Great Lake in Chicago, and declares Philadelphia’s Zahav “the new Momofuku.” Quote: “Michael Solomonov does for Israeli cooking what David Chang does for Asian cooking.”
Agh. Look, we dig Solomonov, too, but clearly the Post hasn’t read our rant about lazily comparing everything to Momofuku. Comparing Zahav (which strives for fairly authentic Israeli cuisine in a more upscale-ish setting than your basic falafel stand) to Momofuku is like comparing apples to oranges, or heck, ramen to hummus.