The Other Critics

La Costanera ‘Shows Promise,’ But Comes Up Short; Frances Earns Unterman’s Approval

La Costanera in Montara, CA
La Costanera in Montara, CA

• Mr. Bauer calls the views down the coast at Montara’s La Costanera “breathtaking by day and almost mystical at night,” but food-wise says the place is “still finding its sea legs” and hands them a merely fair two stars. [Chron]

• Jessica Battilana at 7x7 dropped in, semi-reluctantly, for an early taste of the vegan Mexican grub at Gracias Madre. While she was charmed by the cashew-based “nacho cheese” and the “meaty, toothsome mushrooms” in a taco (there’s that word again), she couldn’t forgive the leaden tortillas or the overall cheeselessness. [Bits & Bites]

• Unterman takes a first crack at Melissa Perello’s Frances, bestowing her usual, hyperbolic praise on several dishes, including the creamed winter greens (“one of the best dishes on the planet”) and the skate wing (“a dream”). [SF Examiner]

La Costanera ‘Shows Promise,’ But Comes Up Short; Frances Earns Unterman’s