• Considering the dearth of decent restaurants on its Lincoln Park block, David Tamarkin figures Kith & Kin could serve crap on a plate and still pack the house. Bonus, then, that the rigatoni is toothsome and the confited chicken thighs are ace. A few sour notes keep it from being a destination restaurant, but then that’s not really the point. [TOC]
• Julia Kramer revisits Branch 27 now that John Manion’s totally revamped the kitchen, and finds a menu that finally lives up to the beautiful space. The top-notch cassoulet, deep-fried chicken livers, and grilled radicchio salad are emblematic of a real sea change. [TOC]
• Phil Vettel votes Pelago as the second-best Italian restaurant that opened in 2009 (winner: Cibo Matto), thanks to chef Mauro Mafrici’s deft hand with pasta and wizardry with multi-meat presentations, particularly a duck-and-pork roulade that works perfectly. [Tribune]