In the magazine this week, find an extensive guide to the pleasures of soup. Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld reveal the city’s top 50 bowls and choose chicken matzo ball delivery from the 2nd Avenue Deli as the cure-all of the season. Gillian Duffy scores a recipe for Soup Doria, a potage Andrew Carmellini created for a Swiss princess who used to live in the St. Regis Hotel. For those seeking a quicker fix, Adam Platt judges canned soups. Also, look at what’s new in soups in other Grub Street cities around the country: Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, San Francisco, and Los Angeles.
As always, food is a Reason to Love New York. In this year’s edition, Grub Street’s Daniel Maurer and Alexandra Vallis write of the city’s ongoing obsessions with hot dogs, hamburgers, and pizza — "because we insist on perfecting what’s already perfect."
Also in this issue: Adam Platt enjoys the pre-recession attitudes on display at Le Caprice, even “the patina of old-fashioned Euro snootiness that permeates the operation.” In deference to the atmosphere, the Brit-inflected food "is intended less to dazzle than to please," he notes. If you haven’t settled on Christmas dinner, dazzle your guests by serving this week’s In Season recipe: Kurt Gutenbrunner’s Roast Christmas Goose. Finally, Rob and Robin introduce us to the latest Momofuku obsession: late-night tamales.