Sifton Finds Fun at Tanuki, But Not Ed’s; Cuozzo Compares Casa Lever to a Fiat

By

Doubling up on Jeffrey Chodorow restaurants, Sam Sifton awards a star to Tanuki Tavern, "young and exciting, with food from the same larder as Onos: respectable, perfectly good quasi-Asian fare." Eds Chowder House gets none. He admires chef Ed Brown, but the food isn't up to par: "One wonders, though, how much time hes spent at Eds." [NYT]
Related: A Closer Look at Tanuki Tavern, Plus Menu
First Look at Eds Chowder House, From Jeffrey Chodorow and Ed Brown

"While Casa Lever is anything but cutting-edge, it makes a strong case for what it is: a higher-end, well-oiled Fiat of a restaurant amid racier Ferraris and Lamborghinis," writes Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]
Related: A First Look at Casa Lever, Coming to Lever House Next Week

"I admit Im mesmerized by the audacity of Michael Huynhs feverish empire-building," says Gael Greene, who falls for OBAO. "Im quickly seduced by the powerful tangle of flavors and textures in the spicy beef salad." [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A First Look at Michael Huynhs OBAO and Its Food

Alan Richman takes Best Cellar co-founder Josh Wesson to help review two wine spots where Richman admits bias. LEcole (Richman is dean of food writing) features a nice list, but complicates its cheese program by choosing accompaniments for you. "Said Wesson of Ardesias list, 'Theres something for everybody. Its small with a big range of styles and tastes," writes Richman. And they both liked the food. [Forked & Corked/GQ]
Related: What to Eat at Le Bernardin Spinoff Ardesia, Now Serving Pork-Belly Bites

"That counter is the best place to experience the heart of The Vanderbilt's menu: charcuterie," says Robert Sietsema. [VV]
Related: First Look at the Vanderbilt

On weekends at Permanent Brunch, "the food may or may not be worth the wait," says Shauna Lyon, who unfortunately finds it less successful on evenings, when it's easier to get in. [NYer]