The Other Critics

Sifton Falls for L’Entrecôte; Sutton Doubts Blue Hill

Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte “has a slightly nostalgic air. In part that’s because of the costumes, and the room. But it is also the food, which recalls an era of silver plate and good manners, the simplicity of salad, steak and fries, heavy on the salt and butter, rich as a cardiologist,” writes Sam Sifton. [NYT]

The spotlight the Obamas put on Blue Hill NYC has cost the restaurant, says Ryan Sutton, who urges Dan Barber to “pay more attention to his kitchen there and to Trevor Kunk, chef de cuisine.” [Bloomberg]

Ed’s Chowder House “makes the work of seafood wizard Ed Brown available at prices more reasonable than ever before,” writes Steve Cuozzo, who cautions that it’s “one of those new restaurants that certain pompous critics won’t get.” [NYP]
Related: First Look at Ed’s Chowder House, From Jeffrey Chodorow and Ed Brown

Ed Brown “has a master’s talent, but at Ed’s Chowder House, it mostly seems wasted. While there are certainly dishes worth making a trip for, the restaurant—across the street from Lincoln Center—is less destination, more pre- or postshow convenience,” complains Jay Cheshes. [TONY]

“I like most of what I’m eating,” at Casa Lever, says Gael Greene. “The room has been softened and warmed as promised, ‘tarted up.’” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A First Look at Casa Lever, Coming to Lever House Next Week

“The chicken at the newly re-named Charles’ Country Pan-Fried Chicken was sitting in one of those warming devices that are supposed to keep meat tasting like it just came out of the fryer … but I swear this was chicken that any cook could crow about,” crows Alan Richman. [Forked & Corked/GQ]

Saraghina is that rarest of species, a serious restaurant that doesn’t take itself too seriously. In addition to the pizzas—the best is the capocollo, laden with fiery neck-meat ham—there are a dozen or so nightly specials, each typically excellent and suitable for sharing,” says Lila Byock. [NYer]

Ambiance, a Haitian restaurant in Canarsie, “intends to feed you, and feed you well, but is not concerned with the subsidiary frivolities that dominate modern menus,” writes Robert Sietsema. [VV]

Sifton Falls for L’Entrecôte; Sutton Doubts Blue Hill