Sam Mason Is a God Among Pastry Chefs

Photo: Daniel Maurer

In a piece about the upcoming Top Chef: Just Desserts tryouts, the Observer quotes Harrison and Red Cat pastry chef Colleen Grapes as saying that dessert chefs are the “red-headed stepchildren of the restaurant industry”: They’re paid half as much as savory chefs, don’t get book and TV deals as often, and rarely become restaurant partners. But if pastry chefs are so underappreciated, why is Sam Mason just towering above Sixth Avenue on this billboard? The dude is everywhere! Oh, that’s right — he’s not really a pastry chef anymore.