• Phil Vettel is roundly impressed by Il Poggiolo, Jerry Kleiner’s suburban venture serving a virtually identical menu to his now-shuttered South Loop venture Via Ventuno. He loves the food, he loves the decor, he doesn’t even seem to mind that the chef, Jim Kilberg, admits surprise that suburbanites don’t need a totally dumbed-down menu and will happily eat crazy things like rabbit and venison. [Tribune]
• The food’s great at Big Star, finds Monica Eng, with the minor quibble that the tortillas are inconsistent. Still, the draw isn’t the food so much as it’s the gestalt: good food, good drinks, good music, good vibe. [Tribune]
• While Edzo’s Burger Shop might look like your standard grease-slinging meat store, David Tamarkin sees through to its gourmet foundation: hand-cut fries, fresh-ground beef, and milkshakes that transcend their humble ice cream origins. [TOC]
• Heather Shouse finds the overall effect of LM Le Restaurant favorable — terrific sweetbreads, veal cheeks “rich enough to get elected mayor of New York.” But the overall upscale experience is marred by some seriously underseasoned courses and a one-note lobster bisque. Brunch is redeeming: an elegant, relaxed counterpoint to the neighborhood’s stroller-pushing hordes. [TOC]
