the other critics

Saul Still Good Ten Years Later; A Voce Needs Work

Ten years after surfacing on Smith Street, and weeks before opening a new venture, “Saul is the same restaurant, but better,” says Pete Wells. [NYT]
Related: Pete Wells Is Asked to Kindly Loosen His Grip on Those Stars

“It’s far too early to judge the kitchen,” A Voce, Gael Greene asserts. “Chef Robbins stops by, bringing irresistible curls of sticky dolce di carnevale pastry as a sweet farewell to let us know she realizes ‘we’ve still got a lot of work here.’ She’s right.” [Insatiable Critic]
Related: First Look at A Voce Columbus, Now Accepting Reservations

The “discrepancy between what SHO Shaun Hergatt aspires to be — a first-rate fine-dining establishment — and what it is, a Silk Road sepulcher, just makes you sad,” writes Lauren Collins. [NYer]
Related: A First Look at SHO Shaun Hergatt

At Joseph Leonard, “Chef Jim McDuffee (Bouchon Bakery) offers the sort of comforting food you might treat a friend to when they’re feeling especially blue,” compliments Jay Cheshes. [TONY]
Related: First Look at Joseph Leonard, Bar and (American) Brasserie

Once you pay dearly for access to the Legends Suites at Yankee Stadium, “the fancy food isn’t always better than the mediocre offerings in the rest of the brand-new stadium,” says Ryan Sutton. [Bloomberg]

“The noodles at Quinto Quarto (all $11) are simple and homely, like Roman moms make for their Roman children,” writes Robert Sietsema. [VV]

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