Oceana Hits and Misses; A Voce Lacks Excitement

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Oceana’s new inner sanctum is a classic expense-account mess hall, —an aquatic alternative to the old-fashioned steakhouses surrounding it,” writes Jay Cheshes. Befitting the mold, order plain fish. [TONY]
Related: What to Eat at the New Oceana, Opening Today

Oceana “is the new face of “fine” dining — a multipurpose pigout scene for serious fish lovers, corporate overeaters, tourists and showgoers,” says Steve Cuozzo. [NYP]

“Oceana is no longer the excellent restaurant it was, but it still does serve some great fancy fish,” adds Ryan Sutton. [Bloomberg]

Civetta has had something of a rough start ... But not long ago, with a fresh menu, it was hard to find a disappointing dish,” says Andrea Thompson. [NYer]
Related: A First Look at Civetta, Bringing Housemade Pasta to Nolita Next Week

At A Voce Columbus, “the food is carefully crafted, skillfully plated, and conspicuously unexciting,” complains Alan Richman. [Forked/GQ]
Related: First Look at A Voce Columbus, Now Accepting Reservations

“It’s love of pasta that keeps bringing me back to Sfoglia,” confesses Gael Greene, who finds the kitchen has slowed down since since the restaurant doubled its seating. [Insatiable Critic]

Brighton Beach beer garden Kebeer features German drafts for $4, but “Silk Road food from Uzbekistan predominates,” explains Robert Sietsema. [VV]

Earlier: A Review of Sam Sifton’s First Times Review, in the Style of Said Review