Canadians Should’ve Done Their Homework Before Protesting Coco

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Photo: Courtesy of Phaidon

A funny thing about Coco, the forthcoming Phaidon book wherein ten of the worlds leading chefs each pick ten of their favorite rising culinary stars: Remember when Canadian chefs signed a petition protesting the fact that none of their compatriots were included in the book? Well, they didnt succeed in getting any Canadian chefs added to the roster, but now that weve gotten a finished copy in our hands (it comes out November 15) and weve perused the bios, it turns out there were two Canucks in it all along! Something, it seems, the chefs who signed the petition never picked up on. Youd think such staunch advocates of the Canadian culinary scene wouldve known that Anna Hansen of the Modern Pantry in London was born in Montreal. (Fergus Henderson singled her out for inclusion in the book). And Hugh Acheson, a favorite of Mario Batalis, started his career in his native Ottawa (hes now the chef at the National, Five & Ten, and Gosford Wine in Athens, Georgia). As another product of Ottawa once said: Isnt it ironic?