Where to Drink Lambrusco Tonight

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Not that anyone should need an excuse to quaff cool, fizzy, delicious Lambrusco in excessive amounts, but the wine that is to natives of the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy as Gatorade is to members of the NFL seems to be back on top of the trendlet cycle. Via Emilia, the undersung Flatiron restaurant, is still the place to go for the best selection, and if you visit the restaurant on Wednesday nights, $25 will buy you a half-glass each of four different bottlings, plus a rotating menu of four small plates such as gnoccho fritto with cured meats and an appetizer-size dish of tortelloni.