The Other Critics

The L.A. Times Enjoys Stefan Richter’s Small Plates; Feniger’s Street Strikes Gold

Stefan Richter
Stefan Richter Photo: Tom Zasadzinski

• “Kumamoto oyster with absinthe jello and fennel vinaigrette, and a twee sweetbread schnitzel paired with a creamy potato salad,” are S. Irene Virbila’s favorite dishes among Stefan Richter’s small plates, though she doesn’t watch Top Chef and L.A. foodies don’t “seem to have found Richter” yet. [L.A. Times]

• “Street is at its best when Feniger riffs” at her “virtual museum of world street food,” says Jonathan Gold on Susan Feniger’s first solo act. [L.A. Weekly]

• Although enamored of the pizza and steak at Josiah Citrin’s new Cache, Angeleno’s Brad A. Johnston puzzles, “it’s ironic that any of the food here would actually be undercooked, because everything takes so long to arrive.” [Angeleno Mag]

• “[El Bulli’s]Ferran Adria would be proud” of his friend, Shigetoshi Nakamura, chef at Ramen California, which Merrill Shindler describes as “a journey through the looking glass.” [Daily Breeze]

• “First meal, first week, not brilliant, but decent…second meal: awful in every way,” recounts Virbila, sensing a similar decline at Boa Steakhouse that she saw at the Santa Monica location before mercifully handing them a half-star. [L.A. Times]

The L.A. Times Enjoys Stefan Richter’s Small Plates; Feniger’s Street