Vanity Fair’s New Establishment: Restaurateur Edition


Vanity Fair's annual New Establishment list is out, filled with names — Bill Keller? Charlie Rose? — that are anything but new. Although he owns two restaurants, Graydon Carter didn't include any chefs or restaurateurs. Here are some names we think he must have omitted by mistake.

Keith McNally
The Minetta Tavern
STAGE OF CONQUEST: With the Minetta Tavern, Morandi, Pastis, Balthazar, and, to a lesser extent, Schiller's and Lucky Strike, McNally feeds the good-looking power players of New York City. If he decided to shut down overnight, the incidence of starvation among the upper reaches of Manhattan mastheads would skyrocket. His upcoming pizzeria, Pulino's, will feature Beard-winning chef Nate Appleman.
LEGACY: Model-daughter, Isabelle; a substantial portion of Richard Price's Lush Life is set at a Schiller's cognate.
REASON EXCLUDED: As Carter's main rival for Manhattan's glitterati, there's no way McNally would get a shout-out. Also, this snide quote McNally gave the Times in 2008: "I think Graydon's done an outstanding job," he said, "at paving the way for more restaurateurs to edit magazines."

Tom Colicchio
STAGE OF CONQUEST: Chef Tom, soul-patched and expressive, started out as a pot-smoking lifeguard in Jersey and is now perhaps the most recognizable food figure in the United States. Although his fame may be due to his role as host of Top Chef, his hostiness is predicated on his credibility as chef at the Craft family of restaurants.
SIDE JOB: Moonlights as guitarist for the band Milton.
REASON EXCLUDED: At Craft Los Angeles, Colicchio has no doubt served William Morris–repped Simon Pegg, who played Toby Young in the 2008 anti-Carter stinker How to Lose Friends and Alienate People.

David Chang
Momofuku Empire
STAGE OF GLOBAL CONQUEST: It is enough to utter "Momofuku" to conjure a pork-filled utopia without pretense or reservations and the Silver Jews playing over the stereo. David Chang may get a lot of props, but he's also slowly devouring Manhattan. First, with Noodle, then Ssäm, then Ko, then Milk, and now Midtown, slated to open in October.
LEGACY: Childless for now, Chang has spread his seed through the kitchens of New York City: Brooklyn Star, Persimmon.
MAN-OF-THE-PEOPLE MOMENT: Ko's democratic no-resy line; Momofuku's Four Fucking Dinners were all — briefly — open to the public.
REASON EXCLUDED: Chang's demagoguery no doubt is an affront to Carter's weltanschauung of a world divided into aristos and peasants.