Underground Gourmet Raids Fort Defiance for Muffulettas; Eight Great Beer Gardens

Fort Defiance.
Fort Defiance. Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine

In the magazine this week, the Underground Gourmet gives three stars to Fort Defiance. The “café-bar–soda fountain–home away from home in Red Hook, [is] currently firing on all cylinders except maybe their gas-line connection, a stumbling block that occasioned their temporary closing last week.” Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld’s foraging turned up Orwasher’s locavore whole-wheat bread, which should compete with its venerable rye. The Robs are also tracking this week’s openings: Ardesia is a sleek wine bar with ties to Le Bernardin in Hell’s Kitchen.You can make a game plan for Oktoberfest with a guide to eight great beer gardens. Now in season is broccoli Spigarello, an heirloom sort of rabe that Rose Water chef Bret Macris likes to serve spiked with chile flakes and tempered with honey. And finally, if you haven’t been acquainted with the pleasures of chef Michael White’s pastas, “Marea’s special menu, called Le Collezione at the Crudo Bar, provides a perfect introductory crash course.”