The Final Word on Fried Chicken; Adam Platt on SHO Shaun Hergatt

Photo: Hannah Whitaker

In the magazine this week, Robin Raisfeld and Rob Patronite serve up the ultimate guide to fried chicken. Click through a slideshow of the nine best birds “to eat before you die (or they kill you).” Plot your next meal with a map of north Brooklyn’s batter explosion: “The nexus of New York fried chicken has shifted, seemingly overnight, from Harlem, where such faded relics as M&G; Diner and Pan Pan have gone under, to Williamsburg and Greenpoint, where the down-home flavor fits the boho-hipster vibe.” But Harlem loyalists can anticipate October 15, when Charles Gabriel reopens his flagship as Charles’ Pan-Fried Chicken. If highbrow fried chicken is too much to contemplate, there are still plenty of fast-food joints in the city. Our panel ranked five of them, from KFC to Kennedy Fried Chicken. In his review this week, Adam Platt hands two stars to SHO Shaun Hergatt, though some of the chef’s “baroque creations tip into the realm of parody.” Plum tomatoes are in season this week, and Rob and Robin found a recipe for the Middle Eastern dish shakshuka. Finally, Stuffed Artisan Cannolis opens this week, a “storefront outgrowth of a Little Italy street cart dedicated to miniature and full-size confections in a staggering array of oddball flavors.”