In the magazine this week, Adam Platt remembers Sheila Lukins and Café des Artistes, both icons of eighties food in New York. Platt also delivers a meaty, double-stack review. DGBG recalls “an overstylized, disco version of an old Alsatian beer hall,” but stellar sausages and offal earn a solid star. “An even more antique form of Frenchness is on display at the new Manhattan outlet of the famous Parisian steakhouse in the Seventeenth Arrondissement called Le Relais de Venise L’Entrecôte,” which ekes out a star thanks to an addictive house cream sauce. As a segue into heartier cooking, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld score a hash recipe from Savoy that subs Romanesco zucchini for corned beef. Finally, Andrew Carmellini’s family style dinners arrive on September 14. The Monday-night Southern series at Locanda Verde will feature guest chefs as well as his storied fried chicken.
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