Frank Bruni Admires the Redhead; Ryan Sutton Considers Momofuku’s ‘Fanaticism’

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The Redhead “underscores the extent to which the East Village has become a center of gravity for young chefs intent on bold flavors,” Frank Bruni writes in a supportive one-star review. [NYT]

“So is this fanaticism warranted for Momofuku? Sometimes. That’s based on an appraisal of the chicken (great) and two of its other priciest items: the $200 pork butt (just as good) and the $140 rib eye (a disaster),” Ryan Sutton concludes. [Bloomberg]
Related: The Momofuku Secret Is Old Bay

Civetta, on the edge of Nolita, is Sfoglia’s midlife crisis,“ Danyelle Freeman assesses. “But nobody’s home in the kitchen. Almost everything’s overcooked or oversauced.” [NYDN]
Related: Inside Civetta

“Even in a city awash in unruly menus, DBGB’s stands out for its kitchen-sink scope. Until Boulud has the common sense to pare the thing down, you may want to come with a shortlist of desired dishes — and a preemptive idea of the sort of evening you’re after,” writes Jay Cheshes. [TONY]

“With no claims to making the ‘true pizza of Naples,’” Saraghina is “smart enough to concoct pies that resemble that city’s in the fine texture of the bread and simplicity of the ingredients, while being a bit larger and hence more shareable,” says Robert Sietsema. He also approves of the antipasti and pastas. [VV]
Related: First Look at Saraghina

Sorella “turns out an impressive array of complex, imaginative, and generally well-conceived dishes,” says Alan Richman, who cautions the kitchen about a “tendency to oversalt.” [Forked/GQ]
Related: Inside Sorella

Belcourt has “good food, fair prices, and nice waiters,” and “inspires such appreciation amongst its regulars” writes Lauren Collins, who finds the menu is “more ambitious than it has to be.” [New Yorker]