The Other Critics

Breaking Scandal: Does Frank Bruni Hate Sardines?

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According to a Metromix tweet, Frank Bruni “hates sardines.” Can it be? Given our feelings about the li’l guys, such a sentiment would completely shatter our faith in the man as an eater, so we looked back through the Bruni archive and found that (phew) he singled out the buccatini and sardines as one of Dani’s best dishes. He thought the sardine tempura at Momoya was interesting. He found Yakitori Totto’s miso soup with tiny deep-fried sardines memorable. He recommended the sardines with Brussels sprouts and almonds at Shorty’s .32 And he thought Boqueria’s sardines two ways were terrific. Regarding that dish he wrote, “I saw it being delivered to table after table, even though it wouldn’t seem a born crowd-pleaser. Sardines aren’t for sissies.” Sure, that could be a veiled put-down, but the bottom line is: Damn straight sardines aren’t for sissies. We’ve asked Metromix to send us Bruni’s exact words. Knocking a Choco Taco is one thing, but this is outrageous.

Breaking Scandal: Does Frank Bruni Hate Sardines?