De Niro, Carmellini Impress Platt; Better Ice Cream Through Science

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In the magazine this week, Adam Platt commends Robert De Niro for turning Ago into Locanda Verde, which is “as different from its predecessor as a raucous, deceptively sophisticated pop band is from the provincial touring company of a tattered old Broadway show.” Platt also praises Andrew Carmellini’s “crowd-pleasing cooking.” Ice cream “is being reinvented at the molecular level,” writes Susan Burton in a report about how science is changing ice cream. Cooking is much simpler with this week's In Season recipe featuring fresh oregano: chimichurri from Argentine chef Francis Mallman.