Adam Platt on Table 8; How to Have Your Herring

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In the magazine this week, Adam Platt finds that L.A. chef Govind Armstrongs Table 8 is designed by out-of-towners to give their out-of-town guests (including those from Long Island and New Jersey) the illusion that theyre actually dining in New York, and the cooking didnt soften his one-star review. Armstrong doesnt hesitate to use two (or even three) ingredients when one will do. In Season has a more positive view of outsiders: New Catch Holland herring are back in town! These rich and fatty mouth-waterers return for annual Herring Week at Aquavit June 1521. Starting June 9, you can buy them at Russ & Daughters, where co-owner Joshua Russ Tupper has a special way to eat the little fish. Theres one big opening this week: DBGB, of course.