Steak Frites Prepares to Go ‘Wholesome American’


A sign in the window of Steak Frites indicates it’s ready to transition into Lucy Browne’s, a “wholesome American eatery.” A receptionist tells us that no date is set for the relaunch, but in about a few weeks, there will be a new menu of “comfort food such as macaroni and cheese and hamburgers,” including the Big O burger — a seven-ounce LaFrieda patty on an Orwasher’s bun designed by Mr. Cutlets to be a “high-class version of the Oklahoma-style onion burger.” Burger bluster aside, the sign promises the “same great taste” and “same great value” as well as breakfast, an on-site bakery, a late-night menu, and free delivery.