America Taught Jean-Georges About Breakfast; He Tells Us How to Cook Fish


Jean-Georges Vongerichten plans to open ten new restaurants worldwide this year now that he and partner Phil Suarez have teamed up with Starwood Hotels, but he still devotes plenty of time to New York. A version of his Paris restaurant, Market, will open in the renovated Mark Hotel on the Upper East Side next fall. His presence is strong at Jean Georges, which helped the restaurant earn the 2009 James Beard Award for Outstanding Restaurant of the Year. When in town, Vongerichten often prepares his own light lunches in the JG kitchen. I want to live forever, says the chef Im very disciplined for lunch and breakfast, and loose at night. For this weeks New York Diet, see how he balances immortality with marrow bones at Minetta Tavern.

Saturday, May 9
I flew to Washington for my daughters graduation. Before that I started my day with some instant oatmeal Quaker Oats with a little milk, a little brown sugar. I love breakfast. I discovered breakfast in America. When I grew up in France, it was just yesterdays bread, toasted. I have coffee in the morning.

Usually I eat very healthy. I cook for myself; I want to live forever. But for lunch, I wanted to try a soul food place called Georgia Brown. I had great fried chicken, grits, mashed potatoes, and honey.

That night, I went to CityZen in the Mandarin Oriental. I had a couple of dishes. I remember the meal in reverse. For dessert, we had a waffle with bacon glazed with syrup so it was candied on maple ice cream, a veal breast rolled with artichokes, some sea trout, and we had a potato soup to start.

Were opening a restaurant in the W there in July, so I wanted to try a few places. I went for a second meal at a place called komi, with a very young chef. The food was delicious. A lot of raw dishes. Its a prix fixe menu and the first seven dishes are raw, and then you choose a pasta and a main course. I started with a slice of turbot with a little sea salt and lemon, trout, oysters with a lemongrass sabayon that was brule, and tartar of shrimp. Then I had the best pasta I had this year, with homemade spaghettini, crab meat, sea urchin, and Aleppo pepper. I had a crispy shoulder of baby goat for my main. I think hes of Greek origin.

Sunday, May 10
The next day I did not have breakfast. After my daughters graduation, I took her to Tabard, a little inn, for an amazing brunch. They had a beautiful terrace outside. I had eggs Benedict with spinach and homemade fried doughnuts. I went to the gym Monday morning.

I came back at midnight and went to Matsugen and had some sushi and soba. I go every Sunday night; my younger daughter is a big fan of udon. It was my only healthy meal of the weekend.

Monday, May 11
I went to my office in Soho. I started with cappuccino, and had my new breakfast: toasted seven-grain toast and almond butter with quarter-inch sliced banana on top. I had a couple of those.

Monday lunch, I had a piece of arctic char at Jean Georges. When Im in New York, Im there every day. I steam it in a CVap at a very low temperature, 180 degrees, for five to six minutes. I ate that with some sauted artichokes and a piece of lemon.

At dinner at 10, I went to a new Keith McNally restaurant, Minetta Tavern. I had tartar of beef and lamb, bone marrow; it was rich food. There were eight of us and we just shared things: the cte de buf for two, chicken, and guinea hen. The Black Label burger is amazing. We had souffl to end; it was excellent.

Tuesday, May 12
My toast again.

For lunch, just black sea bass, steamed in the CVap, with sauted spinach and olive oil. When I grew up my parents made me eat at the same time; I dont snack, but I never miss a meal. I always have breakfast around 9 a.m., lunch around 3, dinner at 9:30 or 10.

At nighttime, I went to Matsugen for a plate of sushi.

Wednesday, May 13
Same toast.

I had a piece of chicken from the Jean Georges menu, but I changed the sauce because no butter for me at lunch, ever. Its chicken breast sauted with grated Parmesan on one side, instead of skin. I had that with white asparagus.

At night, I went to Perry St to try a couple of new dishes, like artichoke salad with a pickled vinaigrette. I like raw things; I tried Madai snapper sashimi, some of our homemade mozzarella with pickled rhubarb and arugula. Theyre adding the dishes to the menu tomorrow.

Thursday, May 14
Toast. Its so good.

For lunch, for the picture, I had CVap-steamed halibut with five kinds of herbs on top of green asparagus. If you dont have a CVap, you can bake any fish at 200 degrees in a convection oven. Put a little olive oil and a drop of water on top so it will steam a little bit, and cook it for ten to fifteen minutes depending on the thickness. If no convection oven, put it in a regular oven at 250. The perfect piece of fish.