Bruni Can’t Take Fishtail Seriously; Yankees Lose With Stadium Food

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At Fishtail by David Burke, Frank Bruni finds a few dishes to like but a general distaste for vibe: While several lines of type on the restaurants elaborately segmented, deeply fatiguing menu trumpet its commitment to sustainable seafood, theres at least as high a premium on silliness, and exuberance is everything. [NYT]
Related: Inside Fishtail by David Burke

Ryan Sutton excoriates the Johnny Rockets burger he ate at Yankee Stadium The rubbery, incinerated meat tasted as if it had been sitting under a heat lamp for 30 minutes and doesnt care for much of the other food options there either. [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at Yankee Stadium

At Bouley, Gael Greene admire[s] some of what I ate more than I relish it. Too much seems so soft, a miasma of cosmic essences. Baby food for a very rich baby. [Insatiable Critic]

Like Adam Platt, Danyelle Freeman visits Harbour this week and likes many of the dishes, but notes an excess of foam and inconsistent dishes there's a few too many highs and lows here. [NYDN]

Alan Richman writes a cranky love letter to Celeste: Celeste is not exactly great, but it is a wonderful trattoria, one of my favorite places to eat in New York and the first place I send visitors from out-of-town who arent looking for three-star dining. [Forked/GQ]

Jay Cheshes eats at Scuderia and Da Silvano. The former exudes easy, youthful charm, but its a neighborhood joint more than a draw. Da Silvano, however, is a restaurant still in search of its soul. [TONY]
Related: A First Look at Scuderia

Andrea Thompson has a satisfying, if stuffing, experience at Shang. The fact that most of what arrived was delicious became a double-edged sword, she writes. It took an iron will to try to save room. [NYer]
Related: A Closer Look at Shang, and Its Menu