What’s the Big Deal About Stumptown Coffee?

Photo: Hans Gissinger

In the magazine this week, Duane Sorenson spreads his messianic message of Stumptown Coffee. But though its availability is increasing in New York (consult our map to find a cup near you), don’t expect Stumptown to become Starbucks-ubiquitous. “I don’t want to sell my coffee to everyone,” Sorenson says. “It’s not for everyone. I don’t have the fucking time for it, man.” Why does it taste so good? Good beans and strict protocols. But is Stumptown really so much better? Alexis Kahn of the International Culinary Center tasted nine competitors for us, and rated them. The Underground Gourmet dined at Sorella this week: “There is an air of luxury about the place, but it’s a reasonably affordable luxury.” The temperature is fickle, but fool yourself into warmth by eating a mango. Richard Leach, the pastry chef at Park Avenue Spring, shares his mango lassi recipe with us this week. Finally, Rob Patronite and Robin Raisfeld uncovered a sweet find: housemade Mallomars at Chocolate Bar.