Kobe Club Finally Falls on Its Sword

By
Photo: Jeff Mermelstein

Well, this was a long time coming — China Grill confirms with Eater that Jeffrey Chodorow is closing his steakhouse (more like mistakehouse!) Kobe Club tomorrow. Rush Limbaugh is going to miss it, but will anyone else? As Adam Platt put it in his no-star review: “If you enjoy Kobe beef in all its extravagant forms (the 28-ounce Wagyu porterhouse costs $390), you might be fine with these theatrics. Otherwise, you’re in for a long night.” After that review, and later Frank Bruni’s, Chodorow famously took out a full-page ad in the Times and threatened to focus his stern critical gaze, in blog form, on Platt’s future reviews. What he didn’t do was turn things around the way Colicchio did when Craftsteak was born to less-than-stellar reviews. Needless to say, this one was a bit of a botch job, especially considering that it was across from one of the highest-grossing steakhouses in the city, Quality Meats. But it’s sad to see any restaurant fail. When the swords come down from the ceiling, we urge the responsible parties not to do what an honorable Japanese salaryman would do. There may be a burger joint ahead?

Deathwatch BLOCKBUSTER: Kobe Club Succumbs At Last [Eater]