Jim Lahey Scoffs at Bruni’s Co. Review

Photo: Hannah Whitaker/New York Magazine

After Co. got a one-star review from Frank Bruni this week, owner Jim Lahey lashed out at the critic in the Observer today. “We have not had a chance to even breathe in 90 days. What the fuck are we being reviewed by the New York Times for, you know, 90 days into being open? It makes no sense,” he told the paper. Though Lahey wanted a two-star review, he also claims that he “didn’t open this restaurant to get reviewed by the Times. Otherwise, I would have made the food a lot differently. I would have bought really nice plates and beautiful stemware.” While Bruni liked Co.’s pizza bianca, Lahey disagreed with that, too: “It’s dogshit!” (Also in that category for Lahey: 10 Downing.) It’ll take more than a Bruni review to quash this city’s obsession with fancy pizza, something Lahey sounds like he’s counting on: “It’s the new food fad.”

‘Master Baker’ Jim Lahey Chews On His Lone-Star Review [NYO]