the other critics

Bruni Doubts Co.’s Toppings; Cuozzo’s Plan for Per Se

Not even Frank Bruni is inoculated against pizza fever. In a visit to Co., Bruni calls Jim Lahey “less chef than shaman,” but thinks some of the pies could be improved. “The best of them are outstanding,” Bruni writes, but Lahey “hasn’t yet nailed the toppings.” [NYT]
Related: A First Look at Co.

Lila Byock also visits Co. this week and loves the stracciatella and boscaiola pies, even though “not every item is so successful.” [NYer]

Steve Cuozzo dismisses Per Se’s “lounge menu” as a poor antidote to an empty dining room, but has another idea for Thomas Keller: “The obvious, overdue solution is to offer shorter, less expensive prix-fixe dinner menus than the $275 bank- and stomach-buster.” [NYP]
Related: Per Se to End Tasting-Menu Tyranny

Eating at Fatty Crab UWS makes Ryan Sutton sweaty and stressed, but he’s there for the pork: “Pelaccio is an expert at rendering all this fat into silky, melt-in-your-mouth fare.” [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at Fatty Crab UWS

Randall Lane prefers the drinks at Macao Trading Co. to the fusion food: “Rather than having a single interesting Macanese restaurant, you get a Chinese eatery and a Portuguese one side by side. Mediocre ones, at that.” [TONY]
Related: Inside Macao Trading Co.

Inakaya is loud, touristy, and over the top. And that’s just fine with Danyelle Freeman. [NYDN]
Related: What to Eat at Inakaya

Robert Sietsema found “the best Sichuan food in town,” and it’s at Bamboo Pavilion in Bensonhurst. [VV]

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