In its current issue, Saveur identifies a dozen “restaurants that matter.” A few New York spots made the cut. Gramercy Tavern because it’s “as vital and new” now under Michael Anthony as it was in 1994 with Tom Colicchio at the helm. Blue Hill at Stone Barns gets a predictable shout-out: “It’s the satisfaction of seeing really good ideas — about how food should be raised and prepared — being put into practice by really good cooks.” We were encouraged by the inclusion of Marlow & Sons — a new entry, at least — until we got to this line. “The regulars are mostly the artists, musicians, graphic designers, and students who have transformed this once hard-bitten waterfront neighborhood into a bustling and vibrant hipster factory.” The writer, Todd Coleman, is one such regular who assures us of his cred by recounting several visits he’s made to Marlow’s sibling restaurant, Diner, and then to Marlow, since 1999. A manager, struggling to explain what it all means, is reduced to comparing the two restaurants to Led Zeppelin and Robert Plant’s solo career. We can’t tell if this says more about Saveur or Marlow & Sons, but it sure is … serious.