Dirt Candy owner Amanda Cohen has castigated the Times for its positive profile of her restaurant in “Dining Briefs” last week. The long rebuttal on her blog begins with writer Oliver Schwaner-Albright’s criticism of the lighting. “You’re not ugly, but you may want to get new friends. Here you are, presumably paying for dinner, and your friend gets a little tipsy on Pete’s Organic beer and turns to you and says, ‘You don’t look so hot,’” she writes. She also chastises the paper for reviewing restaurants too early in order to compete with blogs; rags on the photographer who shot the restaurant; and says the review “didn’t develop or present its ideas in a way I found personally useful.” An image of Mr. Fussy was added for good measure. Little Miss Naughty should note that visitors to her site would never guess that Schwaner-Albright seemed to like the food.