Bruni’s L’Artusi Improvement Plan; La Superior Delights Sietsema

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Frank Bruni suggests a way for LArtusi to improve its one-star rating: If they turned a more skeptical eye to some of [Gabe] Thompsons inventions, edited the menu to about two-thirds its current length and focused harder on the execution of what remained, theyd have an excellent restaurant. [NYT]

LArtusis dcor has an identity crisis, complains Shauna Lyon, who likes many of the pleasing crudos and sublimely rustic pasta. [NYer]

What La Superior lacks in interior design, it makes up for in good food, says Robert Sietsema, who wishes everything were just a little spicier. [VV]

Danyelle Freeman is impressed by La Fonda del Sols back room, where you can really sense [Josh] DeChelliss talents. The front room was uneven, but she still proffers four out of five stars. [NYDN]
Related: A First Look at La Fonda Del Sol

Ken Friedmans psychedelic seafood shack is a cover for a far more serious restaurant, writes Jay Cheshes, declaring the John Dory the best new restaurant Ive visited so far this year. [TONY]
Related: John Dory Bartender Alexis Sarandon Catches Customers Staring

After the critics have passed through and the shine of newness dulls, Steve Cuozzo returns to Corton and finds it even better than it was last fall. [NYP]
Related: Cortons Menu, Illustrated

Ryan Sutton pits Anthos against Kefi: Its like coach class vs. business. Kefi might be cheap, but in truth, Anthos is the better value. And the airline metaphor is appropriate because Kefi is as customer-friendly as steerage. [Bloomberg]
Related: Kefi's Menu, Illustrated

Gael Greene wakes the Oak Room and finds the food fine but the atmosphere musty. [Insatiable Critic]