Bruni Commends Neroni; Sutton Predicts Restaurant Mulligans in 2009

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At 10 Downing, Jason Neroni has improved his dishes over the past few months, enthuses Frank Bruni. The chefs cooking is more complete and grounded than much of what hes accomplished before. [NYT]

Mike Peed is more impressed with 10 Downings dcor than its food, and calls Neronis cooking restrained. [NYer]

Ryan Sutton predicts many restaurants will take a mulligan in 2009: [I]n culinary terms, its when you close an eatery that doesnt work and reopen it under a new concept. Inoteca is such a restaurant, and its better than Bar Milano. [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at Inoteca

Danyelle Freeman spanks Butcher Bay for omitting the Seymour Burton Burger, dessert, and draught beer, among other sins: The menu and the decor at Butcher Bay suggest fish shack, but this is one halfhearted fish shack. [NYDN]
Related: What to Eat at Butcher Bay

Alan Richman doesnt share Adam Platts fondness for dining at the bar, which makes him tough to please at Gottino. [Forked/GQ]

Jay Cheshes joins the queue at Co., deems the crust so good that it needs no toppings, and recommends the Boscaiola, the Flamb, and the ham-and-cheese pie. [TONY]
Related: Mario Batali Judges New Yorks New Pizza Joints

In his quest to find the citys best grilled cheese, Steve Cuozzo decides on Artisanal. [NYP]
Related: Artisanal Reduced to Grilled-Cheese Bar

Robert Sietsema is wowed by the Nepalese food at Mustang Thakali Kitchen: Jump on your yak now, baby, and ride, in Jackson Heights. [VV]