Bruni Commends Neroni; Sutton Predicts Restaurant Mulligans in 2009

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At 10 Downing, Jason Neroni has improved his dishes over the past few months, enthuses Frank Bruni. The chef’s cooking is “more complete and grounded than much of what he’s accomplished before.” [NYT]

Mike Peed is more impressed with 10 Downing’s décor than its food, and calls Neroni’s cooking “restrained.” [NYer]

Ryan Sutton predicts many restaurants will take a mulligan in 2009: “[I]n culinary terms, it’s when you close an eatery that doesn’t work and reopen it under a new concept.” ’Inoteca is such a restaurant, and it’s better than Bar Milano. [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at ’Inoteca

Danyelle Freeman spanks Butcher Bay for omitting the Seymour Burton Burger, dessert, and draught beer, among other sins: “The menu and the decor at Butcher Bay suggest fish shack, but this is one halfhearted fish shack.” [NYDN]
Related: What to Eat at Butcher Bay

Alan Richman doesn’t share Adam Platt’s fondness for dining at the bar, which makes him tough to please at Gottino. [Forked/GQ]

Jay Cheshes joins the queue at Co., deems the crust so good that “it needs no toppings,” and recommends the Boscaiola, the Flambé, and the ham-and-cheese pie. [TONY]
Related: Mario Batali Judges New York’s New Pizza Joints

In his quest to find the city’s best grilled cheese, Steve Cuozzo decides on Artisanal. [NYP]
Related: Artisanal Reduced to Grilled-Cheese Bar

Robert Sietsema is wowed by the Nepalese food at Mustang Thakali Kitchen: “Jump on your yak now, baby, and ride, in Jackson Heights.” [VV]