Bruni Commends Neroni; Sutton Predicts Restaurant Mulligans in 2009


At 10 Downing, Jason Neroni has improved his dishes over the past few months, enthuses Frank Bruni. The chefs cooking is more complete and grounded than much of what hes accomplished before. [NYT]

Mike Peed is more impressed with 10 Downings dcor than its food, and calls Neronis cooking restrained. [NYer]

Ryan Sutton predicts many restaurants will take a mulligan in 2009: [I]n culinary terms, its when you close an eatery that doesnt work and reopen it under a new concept. Inoteca is such a restaurant, and its better than Bar Milano. [Bloomberg]
Related: What to Eat at Inoteca

Danyelle Freeman spanks Butcher Bay for omitting the Seymour Burton Burger, dessert, and draught beer, among other sins: The menu and the decor at Butcher Bay suggest fish shack, but this is one halfhearted fish shack. [NYDN]
Related: What to Eat at Butcher Bay

Alan Richman doesnt share Adam Platts fondness for dining at the bar, which makes him tough to please at Gottino. [Forked/GQ]

Jay Cheshes joins the queue at Co., deems the crust so good that it needs no toppings, and recommends the Boscaiola, the Flamb, and the ham-and-cheese pie. [TONY]
Related: Mario Batali Judges New Yorks New Pizza Joints

In his quest to find the citys best grilled cheese, Steve Cuozzo decides on Artisanal. [NYP]
Related: Artisanal Reduced to Grilled-Cheese Bar

Robert Sietsema is wowed by the Nepalese food at Mustang Thakali Kitchen: Jump on your yak now, baby, and ride, in Jackson Heights. [VV]