Oak Room Not Made for These Times; Shang Underdelivers

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Franki Bruni’s one-star endorsement of the Oak Room: “I’d recommend the Oak Room for anyone intent on an inimitable atmosphere and a baronial sense of splurge and who is willing to risk a forgettable, or even frustrating, meal.” [NYT]

Ryan Sutton is not moved by Shang, though his wallet is: “And for the most part, there’s nothing really wrong with the food, but alas, Shang is about as exciting as Canadian rocker Bryan Adams.” [Bloomberg]
Related: A First Look at Shang

Susur Lee “is a really good cook who’s too clever for his own good sometimes,” Danyelle Freeman assesses. “Too many dishes on this menu taste like cleverness.” [NYDN]

At Co., Allen Richman finds little to criticize but “occasional wrongheaded harmonizing of toppings.” But Motorino’s Margherita DOC “is a soggy mess.” [Forked/GQ]
Related: A First Look at Co.
The Pizza Speaks With a Belgian Accent at Motorino

Jay Cheshes prefers the artwork at 10 Downing to the food. Jason Neroni’s “flavors are for the most part clean, clear and delicious — but his compositions often feel incomplete.” [TONY]

“Josh De Chellis seems to have found his cooking mojo again,” cheers Gael Greene about La Fonda del Sol. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A First Look at La Fonda del Sol

The décor at Graffiti “conjures a scrappier, pre-Giuliani East Village,” says Lila Byock, but the food “is decidedly gentrified.” [NYer]

“[Cesare] Casella’s quirky cooking has been grafted onto the salami store in a way that might delight Dadaists,” says Robert Sietsema about Salumeria Rosi. [VV]
Related: New York Diet: Cesare Casella