Oak Room Not Made for These Times; Shang Underdelivers

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Franki Brunis one-star endorsement of the Oak Room: Id recommend the Oak Room for anyone intent on an inimitable atmosphere and a baronial sense of splurge and who is willing to risk a forgettable, or even frustrating, meal. [NYT]

Ryan Sutton is not moved by Shang, though his wallet is: And for the most part, theres nothing really wrong with the food, but alas, Shang is about as exciting as Canadian rocker Bryan Adams. [Bloomberg]
Related: A First Look at Shang

Susur Lee is a really good cook whos too clever for his own good sometimes, Danyelle Freeman assesses. Too many dishes on this menu taste like cleverness. [NYDN]

At Co., Allen Richman finds little to criticize but occasional wrongheaded harmonizing of toppings. But Motorinos Margherita DOC is a soggy mess. [Forked/GQ]
Related: A First Look at Co.
The Pizza Speaks With a Belgian Accent at Motorino

Jay Cheshes prefers the artwork at 10 Downing to the food. Jason Neronis flavors are for the most part clean, clear and delicious but his compositions often feel incomplete. [TONY]

Josh De Chellis seems to have found his cooking mojo again, cheers Gael Greene about La Fonda del Sol. [Insatiable Critic]
Related: A First Look at La Fonda del Sol

The dcor at Graffiti conjures a scrappier, pre-Giuliani East Village, says Lila Byock, but the food is decidedly gentrified. [NYer]

[Cesare] Casellas quirky cooking has been grafted onto the salami store in a way that might delight Dadaists, says Robert Sietsema about Salumeria Rosi. [VV]
Related: New York Diet: Cesare Casella