Gopnik: Secret Anti-Locavore?

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New Yorker scribe Adam Gopnik on the best meal hes ever eaten in New York: The best? Certainly the one that comes first to mind was one of the first, a dinner my father-in-law, generous man, treated us to at the old Le Lavandou on East 61st Street, high French cooking of a kind that my current chef friends would regard as non-seasonal, hypertraditional, overmanipulated, and under-local: chicken breast stuffed with forcemeat and scribbled with truffle sauce and so on. I loved it, though, and while today rigorously dining on Hudson Valley ramps and Long Island roots still secretly miss that old world of rose banquettes and captains and souffls. [DI]