Bruni Bloated at John Dory; Cuozzo Blasts Ramsay

By

The John Dory is a little much for Frank Bruni sometimes: The overall flavor spectrum is too narrow, a wallow in buttery, creamy and salty effects. I sometimes left feeling overwhelmed maybe I should say capsized in a way I seldom do. [NYT]
Related: Inside the John Dory

Steve Cuozzo calls Gordon Ramsay a great big clown and slams the man more than his food, though dinner at Gordon Ramsay at the London was better than mediocre. [NYP]

Craft is a four-star American restaurant for the recession, says Ryan Sutton, who acknowledges the demands on Tom Colicchios time before assuring diners that at the New York flagship, things are in order. [Bloomberg]

Gael Greene checks out The Four Seasons at 50 and learns that the Grill is hanging in there: Quite frankly, all of us are surprised that the food is quite good. [Insatiable Critic]

Alan Richman visits the underpublicized Seasonal and is pleased to find Austrian food that can be admirably complex, moderately priced, and quite authentic. [Forked/GQ]

A meal at Desnuda in the East Village is edible, interactive performance art and chef Christian Zammas is a low-budget, culinary mad scientist, Danyelle Freeman proclaims. [NYDN]

Alexandra Raij's menu at Txikito remains among the most solid Iberian fare in New York, writes Jay Cheshes, who isnt crazy about the setting. [TONY]

At Warung Kario, a Surinamese-Indonesian restaurant in Richmond Hills, Robert Sietsema is happily drenched in peanut sauce. [VV]