the other critics

Bruni Bloated at John Dory; Cuozzo Blasts Ramsay

The John Dory is a little much for Frank Bruni sometimes: “The overall flavor spectrum is too narrow, a wallow in buttery, creamy and salty effects. I sometimes left feeling overwhelmed — maybe I should say capsized — in a way I seldom do.” [NYT]
Related: Inside the John Dory

Steve Cuozzo calls Gordon Ramsay “a great big clown” and slams the man more than his food, though dinner at Gordon Ramsay at the London was “better than mediocre.” [NYP]

Craft is a four-star American restaurant for the recession,” says Ryan Sutton, who acknowledges the demands on Tom Colicchio’s time before assuring diners that “at the New York flagship, things are in order.” [Bloomberg]

Gael Greene checks out The Four Seasons at 50 and learns that the Grill is hanging in there: “Quite frankly, all of us are surprised that the food is quite good.” [Insatiable Critic]

Alan Richman visits the underpublicized Seasonal and is pleased to find Austrian food that can be “admirably complex, moderately priced, and quite authentic.” [Forked/GQ]

A meal at Desnuda in the East Village is “edible, interactive performance art” and chef Christian Zammas is “a low-budget, culinary mad scientist,” Danyelle Freeman proclaims. [NYDN]

Alexandra Raij's menu at Txikito “ remains among the most solid Iberian fare in New York,” writes Jay Cheshes, who isn’t crazy about the setting. [TONY]

At Warung Kario, a Surinamese-Indonesian restaurant in Richmond Hills, Robert Sietsema is happily drenched in peanut sauce. [VV]

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