the other critics

Bruni Admires Buttermilk Channel; Critics Agree on Co.’s Crust

Brooklyn's Buttermilk Channel gets one star from Frank Bruni: “Although one in three dishes widely misses its mark and the restaurant’s reach frequently exceeds its grasp, there’s the possibility of a terrific meal. There’s the probability of a pleasant one.” [NYT]
Related: A Closer Look at Buttermilk Channel, and the Menu

Jim Lahey's crust is “the only thing that’s always perfect at Company,” writes Danyelle Freeman, who finds the toppings and the sauce to be inconsistent. [NYDN]

Ryan Sutton also visits Co., “a bread restaurant that allows pizza to be made with its dough,” but he likes the entire package better than Restaurant Girl. [Bloomberg]
Related: A First Look at Co.

Robert Sietsema wishes Flex Mussels were called something else, but he liked almost every mussel on the menu there. [VV]

April Bloomfield “tends to treat fish as she does meat, and her impressive execution and defiant wit mostly carry it off,” says Leo Carey of the John Dory. [NYer]
Related: First Look: Inside the John Dory

Gael Greene hopes the Denton Brothers will put an ’inoteca in her neighborhood, too. [Insatiable Critic]

Jay Cheshes joins the line of critics wary of Susur Lee’s new venture: “Creations at Shang are certainly thought-provoking. If only they were equally exciting to eat.” [TONY]
Related: A Closer Look at Shang

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