Anthony Bourdain Plays It Safe at Hop Kee, Shuns ‘Phantom Menu’

By

In a preview of the Disappearing Manhattan episode of “No Reservations,” Chris Cheung describes ordering off of a “phantom menu” at places like Hop Kee, where he and Bourdain chow down. Great! So we finally get let in on the secret. Except that Bourdain poo-poohs all that, confesses “I happen to like MSG,” and orders … an egg roll? (His first in over 30 years, he says.) Come on, Tony! Where’s the guy who ate the Namibian warthog!? Also, say what you will about the food, Wo Hop, with its late, late hours and its blue-collar-rock-and-roller die-hards, seems way more like Tony’s kind of place than its neighbor, Hop Kee.