A First Look at Lusso, an Italian Newcomer in Soho

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Photo: Melissa Hom

First-time owner Michael Carpinillo spent a year and a half doing a gut renovation of the old Le Streghe space on West Broadway (lucky for him, his family works in construction). That gave his chef, Bruce Dillon, a former head toque at Suba, plenty of time to experiment with Italian cuisine. The result is the menu that follows. Carpinillo says some of the dishes aren’t Italian so much as Italian-inspired: “The rigatoni is kind of like what Italian families would eat on Sunday, but he covers it with fonduta.” The bar offers Italian wines as well as lesser-known craft beers from the region, and the coffee is custom-blended by D’Amicos in Brooklyn. Lusso opened yesterday for dinner and in a couple of weeks it’ll add lunch and brunch service.

Appetizers
Crostini (grilled bread, chicken liver pâté) - $9
Crudo (yellowtail, clementine, basil, pink peppercorn) - $13
Asparaghi (asparagus, blood orange, radicchio, pistachio vinaigrette) - $11
Insalata Rustica (rocket arugula, soppressata, roasted pepper, smoked ricotta, hard-boiled egg) - $12
Piatto (selection of meats, cheeses, vegetables) - $12 / $22
Calamari Ripieni (stuffed squid, braised fennel, cerignola olives) - $11

Primi
Cavaloflore (roasted cauliflower soup, candied chestnuts, maple) - $9
Gnocchi (potato dumpling, pancetta, peas, hedgehog mushrooms, Parmesan) - $14
Pappardelle (Hudson Valley rabbit, arugula, blackberry, cracked pepper pasta) - $15
Lasagna (spinach pasta, lamb Bolognese, celery root béchamel) - $14
Mezzi Rigatoni (Berkshire pork, Sunday sauce, fonduta) - $14
Risotto (roasted pear, toasted walnuts, Gorgonzola) - $13

Secondi
Pollo (roasted free-range chicken, cavolo nero, buttercup squash, green peppercorn pan jus) - $24
Branzino (grilled whole sea bass, green olives, pignoli, shaved fennel) - $29
Merluzzo (prosciutto-wrapped cod, johny blue mussels, manila clams, spinach) - $27
Osso Bucco alla Milanese (braised veal shank, saffron risotto, gremolata) - $28
Bistecca (hanger steak, broccoli rabe, roasted fingerling potato) - $25
Anatra (roasted duck breast, farro, Brussels sprouts, speck, cherry agro dolce) - $28

Contorni - $7
Broccoli rabe
Polenta
Brussels sprouts
Meatballs
Favata

Desserts
Tiramisu for Two (espresso syrup, house-made ladyfingers, amaretto zabaglione) - $13
Aunt Josie’s Cannoli (layered candy orange ricotta cream, white-chocolate and orange marmalade) - $8
Chocolate Panna Cotta (apricot jam, pizzelle) - $8
Affogato (vanilla ice cream, espresso, pistachio biscotti) - $8
Gelato & Sorbet (assortment from Il Laboratorio del Gelato) - $8

Lusso, 331 W. Broadway, at Grand St.; 212-431-0131