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Can D.B.A. Williamsburg End the City’s Muffuletta Curse?

Photo: Melissa Hom

We recently ordered a “Central Grocery” po boy at Two Boots L.E.S. and got something that had nothing to do with the famed New Orleans shop’s muffuletta. And so we continue our search for a decent local version of this cold-cut-and-tapenade juggernaut — a quest we can only hope and pray will come to an end next week when recently opened D.B.A. Williamsburg begins serving D’Artagnan charcuterie, Bobolink Farm cheese, and yes, a muffuletta, including (sacrilege!) a vegetarian version. Owner Ray Deter says that up till now, he’s been giving away test versions of the sandwich while trying to find a suitable substitute for the inimitable Portuguese-style bread deployed at Central Grocery.

As far as beer goes, he’s excited that his new joint’s proximity to the Brooklyn Brewery allows him to serve the freshest of cask ales (his sixteen draft lines will be more heavily dedicated to local varieties). And for those who shrug at terms like “hand-drawn,” the bar will finally be whipping up cocktails, starting with a coffee, seltzer, and eggnog concoction that tastes like an egg cream. Right now, D.B.A. is doing business from 4 p.m. till 4 a.m., but eventually it’ll open at 1 p.m. — and come spring, there’ll be a landscaped back patio (possibly with “high-end Astroturf”!).

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