the other critics

Daniel Stays Perfect; Richman Loathes L’Artusi

Frank Bruni revisits Daniel and the restaurant keeps its four-star rating: "All in all Daniel remains one of New York’s most sumptuous dining experiences. And while it yields fewer transcendent moments than its four-star brethren and falls prey to more inconsistency, it has a distinctive and important niche in that brood, a special reason to be treasured." [NYT]

Alan Richman blasts L'Artusi after a single visit. "No way will I eat that food again," he explains. "Even restaurant critics have the right, in extraordinary circumstances, to behave like human beings. No reasonable person would return to that restaurant after eating what we did." [Forked/GQ]

Inside Park at St. Bart's "is one struggling spot that actually deserves our dining dollars," asserts Jay Cheshes, who believes the midtown spot "features some of the city’s finest Greenmarket cooking." [TONY]
Related: First Look: Inside Park at St. Bart's

Robert Sietsema goes mainstream and dines at the John Dory, which serves great seafood but at unreasonable prices. [VV]
Related: First Look: Inside the John Dory

Steve Cuozzo dismisses Center Cut as fine but forgettable: "This organically obsessed beef joint not only spares your arteries, it leaves only the flimsiest imprint on your palate, eyes and mind." [NYP]

Macao Trading Co. proves too confusing for Danyelle Freeman. "The real mystery at Macao Trading Co. is the brains behind it," she writes. "What were they thinking? The chef is David Waltuck from Chanterelle. The management is the mustached gang from Employees Only. Surely, they know better." [NYDN]
Related: A First Look at Macao Trading Co.

Ryan Sutton blames the downfall of the Rainbow Room on the Ciprianis, who "should apologize for desecrating one of Manhattan’s great sky-high vistas with sky-high prices for airline food." [Bloomberg]

Kate Julian joins the chorus of critics who wish Dirt Candy was named something else. While the food will make you reconsider your vegetables, the dishes are inconsistent and wine selections are "strange — although thankfully cheap." [NYer]

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